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Stage 4 of 6 · Western section

Stage 4: Encumeada → Fontes Ruivas

The Levada do Norte tunnels, the Folhadal forest and its waterfalls, then the climb back up to the moors of Bica da Cana.

14.6 km1,360 m ascent840 m descent6h45 – 8hBica da Cana 1,560 mHard
Madeira Crossing stage 4: Encumeada – Fontes Ruivas
Photo: tonique · CC BY-SA 2.0

Elevation profile

750 m1,000 m1,250 m1,500 m1,750 m0 km2 km4 km6 km8 km10 km12 km14 kmBica da Cana 1,560 m
Elevation profile: from 963 m to 1,585 m over 14.6 km.
WaypointAltitudeKm
Boca da Encumeada1,007 m0 km
Folhadal1,000 m2.2 km
Caramujo1,255 m8.2 km
Bica da Cana1,560 m10.6 km
Fontes Ruivas1,510 m14.6 km

The route

From Encumeada, the crossing follows the PR17 Caminho do Pináculo e Folhadal in reverse. It first runs along the Levada do Norte and its tunnels, two of them several hundred metres long and sometimes flooded ankle-deep: a head torch is essential.

Beyond, the path crosses the Folhadal forest, one of the finest laurel forests on the island, dotted with waterfalls, then climbs to the Caramujo camping zone (1,255 m) and the Bica da Cana viewpoint (1,560 m). The PR17 is only open between Encumeada and Bica da Cana, which is exactly the section used by the crossing.

A link path built by the IFCN then leads to the Estanquinhos forest house and the Fontes Ruivas camping zone (1,510 m), on the edge of the Paul da Serra plateau. Several camping zones line the stage: you can cut it short at Caramujo or Bica da Cana.

Practical tips

  • A head torch is effectively compulsory for the Levada do Norte tunnels, as are shoes that can cope with water.
  • Book the PR17 on SIMplifica (€4.50, or the €9 day rate if you walk several PR trails).
  • The plateau is often in fog: an offline GPX track stops you taking the wrong path at Bica da Cana.
  • No water at Caramujo, Estanquinhos or Fontes Ruivas according to the IFCN pages: fill your bottles at Bica da Cana, the only equipped camping zone on the stage.

Water points and tricky sections

3 water points listed on this stage and 3 tricky sections (levada tunnels: head torch). Springs can run dry in late summer: ask in the cafés along the route and treat the water if in doubt.

KmPointTypeAltitude
1 kmTunnel Levada do Norte (≈ 530 m) : lampe frontaleTricky section1,042 m
2.5 kmTunnel Levada do Norte (≈ 860 m) : lampe frontaleTricky section1,087 m
5.7 kmTunnel Levada da Ribeira do Inferno (≈ 50 m) : lampe frontaleTricky section1,164 m
13 kmRobinetWater point1,576 m
13.2 kmFontaineWater point1,583 m
14.5 kmFontaineWater point1,514 m

Source: OpenStreetMap (ODbL), points less than 150 m from the trail. Fountains and springs are not tested: treat or filter the water.

Stage map

Where to stay on stage 4?

Accommodation along the stage, at the finish or on its variants, in walking order.

Encumeada and Chão dos Louros 3 places to stay

B&Boff route

Casinhas da Laurissilva

Sítio da Ribeira Grande (Rosário), on the ER228 between the Boca da Encumeada and São Vicente · Madeira Crossing km 47.8

Small houses deep in the laurel forest on the north side, about 3.3 km by road (ER228) below the Boca da Encumeada…

    Zona de acampamento do Chão dos Louros
    Campsiteoff route

    805 m

    ©

    Zona de acampamento do Chão dos Louros

    Parque Florestal do Chão dos Louros, on the ER228 below the Boca da Encumeada (north side) · Madeira Crossing km 47.8

    Large forest park by the road, about 700 m as the crow flies from the Boca da Encumeada, on the São Vicente side. It…

    • IFCN camping permit: €5 per tent…
    Hoteloff route

    900 m

    Valley View Hotel Encumeada

    Feiteiras, Serra de Água, below the Encumeada pass (south side) · Madeira Crossing km 48.7

    3-star mountain hotel about 650 m as the crow flies below the Encumeada pass, on the Serra de Água side. It is the…

      Serra de Água 5 places to stay

      B&Boff route

      Old Aqueduct Village

      Serra de Água (village), Ribeira Brava valley, below the Encumeada pass

      Small Alojamento Local property (studios) in the village of Serra de Água, about 5.5 km by road (ER104) below the Boca…

        Innto be confirmed

        560 m

        Pousada dos Vinháticos

        Fajã dos Vinháticos, Serra de Água, on the Encumeada road

        Historic pousada, opened in 1933 according to Visit Madeira, in the Serra de Água valley, about 2 km as the crow flies…

          B&Boff route

          Villa Rústica – Casa da Lurdes

          Serra de Água, on the village's main road

          120 m² holiday home (2 bedrooms, 4 people) in the village of Serra de Água, about 5.5 km by road below the Boca da…

          • 4 beds
          • Whole house from US$75 a night…
          Refugeoff route

          1,224 m

          Casa Anexa do Lombo do Mouro (IFCN)

          Lombo do Mouro, Encumeada – Paul da Serra road, next to the Casa do Lombo do Mouro

          Small annexe of the Casa do Lombo do Mouro (4 people maximum), rented separately by the IFCN. Same access: a 10-minute…

          • 4 beds
          Refugeoff route

          1,224 m

          Casa do Lombo do Mouro (IFCN)

          Lombo do Mouro, Encumeada – Paul da Serra road (10 min on foot from the road)

          IFCN forest house rented as a whole (10 people maximum), a 10-minute walk from the Paul da Serra road, about 3 km from…

          • 10 beds

          São Vicente 5 places to stay

          B&Boff route

          Solar da Bica

          Sítio dos Lameiros, Rua da Bica 17, on the slopes of the São Vicente valley

          Family-run agritourism house (two restored old houses) on a slope of the São Vicente valley, on the edge of the laurel…

            Hoteloff route

            Estalagem do Vale

            Sítio das Feiteiras de Baixo, Rua Dr. Gregório Dinis 37, São Vicente valley

            4-star hotel with 41 rooms at the bottom of the São Vicente valley, about 8.5 km by road from the Boca da Encumeada…

              B&Boff route

              Gardens Guest House

              Sítio do Passo, Estrada da Furna 23, São Vicente valley

              Budget guesthouse in the São Vicente valley, with private rooms (some with a shared bathroom), a shared kitchen and a…

                Hoteloff route

                Quinta Vale Vitis

                Sítio do Passo, Estrada D. João V no. 160, São Vicente valley

                Renovated quinta in the heart of the São Vicente valley, a few minutes from the town and about 8.6 km by road from the…

                • Single room from €80 a night…
                Hoteloff route

                Estalagem do Mar

                Juncos, Fajã da Areia, on the seafront about 1 km from São Vicente town

                Seafront hotel facing the Atlantic at Fajã da Areia, about 1 km from São Vicente town and 11.7 km by road from the…

                  Bica da Cana, Estanquinhos and Fontes Ruivas 4 places to stay

                  Campsite

                  1,255 m

                  Zona de acampamento do Caramujo

                  Caramujo, on the PR17 (Caminho do Pináculo e Folhadal), above the Levada do Norte · Madeira Crossing km 56.2

                  Small zone beside the PR17, about 8 km after Encumeada via the Levada do Norte and Folhadal. No water, WC or fire pit…

                  • IFCN camping permit: €5 per tent…
                  Campsite

                  1,560 m

                  Zona de acampamento da Bica da Cana

                  Bica da Cana, edge of the Paul da Serra (tarmac road), near the forest house · Madeira Crossing km 58.5

                  Equipped zone (water, WC, fire pits, bins) about 200 m from the route, at the end of the open part of the PR17 coming…

                  • IFCN camping permit: €5 per tent…
                  Campsite

                  1,540 m

                  Zona de acampamento dos Estanquinhos

                  Estanquinhos, Paul da Serra plateau (dirt track) · Madeira Crossing km 60.9

                  Zone on the Paul da Serra plateau, about 150 m from the route, on the link path laid out by the IFCN between Bica da…

                  • IFCN camping permit: €5 per tent…
                  Campsite

                  1,510 m

                  Zona de acampamento Estanquinhos – Fontes Ruivas

                  Fontes Ruivas, Paul da Serra plateau (access on foot) · Madeira Crossing km 62.4

                  Camping zone on the route, about 1.5 km after Estanquinhos. It is the overnight stop chosen after the Encumeada → Bica…

                  • IFCN camping permit: €5 per tent…